The Whole truth about lash serums
Why and What is it about?
Everyone dreams of having thicker and longer eyelashes.
Beauty products such as eyelash serums, mostly named as eyelash growth serums promise to boost lashes using different ingredients, making the natural eyelashes healthier, thicker and fuller.
But does it actually work and is it safe?
I am here for you, to help you understand what is inside these serums and how they work, so you can become your own little expert in lash serums, and so you can have the freedom of choice and to wisely buy the product right for you. No more being controlled by social media ads, influencers, staged videos and more.
Some serums are very affordable and an have "add to cart" features with an easy and quick checkout, which makes us buy these products without knowing what is inside and without being aware of any side effects which may be.
For sure, there are some pricey serums on the market, with straight forward messaging, "I am expensive - so I am good, ...you are getting what you are paying for". Making us feel like a confident buyers, Oh yes! This will work! ..again using speedy checkout, add to cart, pay, will be delivered in 2-3 days and done! But is it actually true? Is it better, because it's more expensive? Will I have thicker, longer lashes?
How does it work?
Firstly, you must understand all eyelashes naturally shed.
In layman's terms, the eyelash starts her life as a "baby" (anagen) turning into a "teen" (catagen) and "retired" (telogen).
Baby lashes are most active in growing, teens are in the transitioning stage and retired are resting to get ready to fall.
Old (retired) eyelashes will fall down and new baby lashes will grow out. So nothing is forever, you can’t have eyelashes which will always grow and stay there.
Serums are designed to penetrate into the eyelash hair and the root, nourishing and feeding them to promote growth.
Does it actually work like that?
The truth is: Yes and No.
Eyelash Serum is a booster product which will make the lash live longer; that eyelash root will stay, and not to fall out as it would normally shed. So eyelashes will look longer and thicker. Of course, if you've had damage to the eyelash bed, then the serum will help recover the natural eyelash cycle by boosting them for now and turning to "live longer process".
What's in it?
Popular ingredients of eyelash serums are:
Biotin- vitamin B7 also known as vitamin H; is often glamorised as a treatment for hair loss and to promote healthy hair, skin, and nails.
Peptides- helps build stronger eyelashes to protect them from breakage and damage, a high-performance hydrating peptide that makes lashes healthier and shiny-looking.
Triple Peptide Complex (Acetyl Tetrapeptide, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17) acts on all three lash phases.
Prostaglandin and their analogs- chemical compounds with hormone-like effects with temporary driven results. Target the baby lash (anagen phase) of the eyelash growth cycle, resulting in longer, thicker eyelashes with more melanin deposition. Prostaglandin analogs may also increase the number of eyelashes in the lash follicle itself.
On the market the prostaglandin serums use chemical compounds with hormone-like effects, you can find serums that use synthetic prostaglandins called:
- Isopropyl cloprostenate
- Bimatoprost
- Isopropanol Phenyl-hydroxyl-pentene Dihydroxy-cyclopentyl-heptenate
- Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide
- Trifluoromethyl Dechloro Ethylprostenolamide
Pumpkin seed extract- is basically a super growth ingredient, helping the lashes to remain in the growth phase for longer, whilst also helping prevent the lash fall-out phase.
Hyaluronic acid- restores water levels inside the hair structure for a hydrating effect that reaches deep within your lashes.
Panthenol- Vitamin B5 conditions the lashes.
Castor oil- is rich in ricinoleic acid, which is a fatty acid.
Which one?
Choosing the right serum among multiple brands available on the market might be challenging. Each of them comes with pros and cons.
From prostaglandin or peptide-based serums to castor oil, the choices are endless.
The hormone (prostaglandin) based serums are effective but have multiple side effects that may permanently damage your beauty.
The most common adverse events from prostaglandin lash serums are:
- Itchy eyes
- Vasodilation of the blood vessels on the eyelids (increased blood flow of capillaries, causing turning very red)
- Dryness
- Darkening of the skin around the eye
- Darkening of the eye colour
- Eye Inflammation
- Swelling of the retina
- Fat atrophy around the eye
..But..There are no long-term tests for prolonged growth hormone application other than random images on the web of drooping eyelids, skin darkening, and iris colour change.
The peptide serums are the medium of clinically proven and effective serums.
Eyelashes, just like hair, are made up of 90% of protein. This is where amino acids (peptides) come into play. Not only are amino acids the building blocks of protein (and thus your eyelashes), but they also nourish and repair the damage. Using peptide-based infused formulas is safe as it assists a natural process of eyelash lifespan and thickens them in the anagen phase. During the catagen phase, peptides deliver nourishment to prolong this phase. In the telogen phase, your lashes appear to be longer.
The castor oil splits the audience in half, where some say that it is great for hair growth, while others say that there is a lack of scientific evidence for using castor oil for lash growth.
It can help moisturise the skin, acts as an emollient. So it may help hydrate your lashes and decrease the risk of breakage, unfortunately, it will not cause lashes to grow any faster or denser than normal. There is not much (if any) actual scientific or clinical data on whether castor oil helps to galvanise growth or activate the metabolic functions in the follicle to solicit the anagen or prolong the growth phase.
Before deciding about what type of lash serum to use, ask yourself a question:
Considering all the side effects, is it worth using prostaglandin serum to achieve longer lashes temporarily?
By Anastasia with love xx